It’s easy to be seduced by the numbers (scores) when it comes to buying wine. So much wine, so many different labels, regions, varietal grapes ... Oy!
To the average person it, no doubt, just boggles the mind. But, it is a dangerous game you play when you buy wine strictly by the numbers. For those who haven’t a clue what I am writing about read on.
The Wine Spectator (http://www.winespectator.com/), Wine Enthusiast (http://www.winemag.com/), Wine Advocate (http://www.erobertparker.com/) and International Wine Cellar (http://www.wineaccess.com/expert/tanzer) - all publications that review and rate wine are doing so on the 100 point system. As any American who has gotten past kindergarten knows, a 92 is a low A and an 85 is a B and an A is better to have than a B or a C. This is the basis for the numbers I am talking about. While these “ratings” are somewhat helpful to navigate the aisles of the average wine shop (where alas, too few employees actually know about wine) it can lead you into a false sense of security or worse, a wine rut.
There’s more to it even than that. Let’s say a particular wine, i.e., 1997 Napa Fruit Bomb Cabernet Sauvignon gets an “88" (a decent score to be sure) rating in one of these publications. You spy a “shelf talker” (a card that has the review from the publication that gave it the “88" typically produced by the winemaker or the distributor) at your local shop, but the vintage they actually have is 1998 (which was not rated at all). What does this mean? Is the wine as good? It depends.
One of the major things to take into account is not only the year (another number to consider), but who made the wine.Is it a producer who year after year makes consistently high quality wines that reflect the pride of a winemaker and the vineyards from which he gets his grapes? This cannot be reflected in a number. The numbers also don’t indicate whether the wine is made by a current “hot” winery or is made in a new “trendy” style that could be here today and gone tomorrow.
Lastly the numbers alone don’t help you discover the reviewers “palate.” In the case of the bigger magazines that receive loads of advertising support from the big wineries, they review wines in groups and the scores are not from one taster, but many. This makes it impossible to figure out their “palate” let alone if it is similar to yours.
One reviewer = one opinion is much easier to use as a tool and a guide for buying wine. Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar (http://www.wineaccess.com/expert/tanzer) and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (http://www.erobertparker.com/) are two of the best of the one review/one opinion publications (though Parker now has many associates assisting him) offering candid and honest views on wines that they have personally tasted.
The biggest thing is to guard against only buying due to a number, whether it’s a score or a vintage. Remember, a 92-point wine may not be for you. After reading the description of the flavors as being tarry and earthy, if you prefer juicy and fruity then this 92-pointer will not ring your bell. Our staff tastes everything we sell first and rates the wine by flavor and body.
Hey, nobody knows better than I that the wine world isn’t simple, but let’s not look for shortcuts to our own taste buds. It doesn’t make sense and what we ultimately cut out in our haste is the joy of trying new wine and experiencing wine which by definition is merely a simple beverage that brings us pleasure when enjoyed with friends and food.
As we are forced to say so often: Live by the numbers; Die by the numbers! If you are unsure about wines; be sure about your wine shop and the staff they employ for a great recommendation each and every time you are looking for wine!
Have a Happy V-Day and be sure to Drink Vino!
Michael
